Since 2022, we have been active with the Toca Project in the Sierra de Zongolica in Mexico. Last year, the cooperative made a huge step forward. The producers built a micro-beneficio, centrally process coffee cherries, and continuously improve coffee quality. Through co-investment, we transformed from buyers to partners – the potential is enormous, and sustainable change is possible.
The Toca Project has made immense progress. In March 2025, I was on-site and was impressed and delighted to see how the producers have built their own small processing plant (microbeneficio), become entrepreneurs, and are looking to the future with great enthusiasm.
A brief review
In autumn 2022, we launched the Toca Project in the Sierra de Zongolica, in the south of Veracruz state. The idea was to support a newly formed cooperative of small-scale producers on their path to organic-regenerative agriculture, create new market access, and continuously improve coffee quality.
We roast the coffee from this project as "Toca" – a dark espresso with a heavy body, soft texture, and balanced acidity.
In spring 2023, the group dissolved. Disagreements, different ideas, and a lack of consensus on pricing split the group. A smaller, new group formed, which led to the creation of the association "Citlal Kaffen" in 2024 – meaning "Coffee Star" in English. Since March 2025, Citlal Kaffen is officially a cooperative.
The importance of forming an association
The association of smaller producers into a group is essential:
- As a cooperative, they are efficient in administration,
- benefit from collective purchasing,
- have better sales conditions,
- expanded market access, and
- gain access to financial support.
Furthermore, they share infrastructure and risk, which gives them a stronger voice and branding through their joint appearance.
Our goal from the beginning was to support the group so that they have every opportunity to pursue their path autonomously.
We want to avoid dependencies. Therefore, organic certification was a priority from the outset, as it would remain even if our relationship were to end. Meanwhile, half of the producers are organic-certified.
A group meeting at Don Germán's finca
The Sierra de Zongolica and coffee cultivation
Zongolica lies nestled between the hills of the Sierra, surrounded by cloud forests and impressive flora and fauna. The region attracts many day tourists who explore the mountains and cloud forest. But despite this beauty, there are also dark clouds: security in the surrounding industrial towns like Córdoba and Orizaba has deteriorated, and coffee and cocoa are frequently stolen.
Major challenges persist on the political and economic levels: the US administration has imposed 25% import tariffs on Mexican goods, making coffee exports to the USA unattractive. Furthermore, many US-funded infrastructure projects by USAID, such as road construction projects and support for long-term development organization projects, are no longer possible due to funding cuts. In Mexico, there is also a shortage of labor, and migration numbers are rising, contrary to hostile migration policies in the USA.
Despite these difficult conditions, I was able to observe the growth of the Toca project and the positive changes at Ensambles and Citlal Kaffen. This cooperative has taken an impressive step by founding the “Star of Coffee” (Citlal Kaffen). I had the privilege of witnessing the development of the producers and the progress in setting up a micro-beneficio.
With the group in the solar dryer - the drying tent for the coffees
Citlal Kaffen: A young cooperative with big goals
The cooperative has rebuilt the beneficio and now owns it. The micro-beneficio is located on Don Germán's finca. This finca is over 100 years old and was a beneficio until 2013, before the Roya coffee rust epidemic forced many farmers to abandon coffee production. Thus, the micro-beneficio also ceased operation, but we have now brought it back to life.
The beneficio stood idle for ten years. Now we have revived it.
The beneficio is located in the hamlet of Apixtepec, a small hamlet in the Sierra de Zongolica, on the main road. It is astonishing to see how the group has built a functional micro-beneficio from simple means – using bamboo, wood, and second-hand equipment. A true example of sustainability and creativity.
The producers have not only contributed their expertise but also their labor to build and operate the beneficio. In five so-called "faenas" (day-long work sessions), the 13 members excavated the ground, leveled it, and built the beneficio and the drying facility.
Protected from moisture and UV rays, the coffee is dried to completion in the drying tunnel.
With this facility, the cooperative can process the coffee cherries of its members, but also has the potential to do so for other producers. This allows Citlal Kaffen to offer a service and diversify the cooperative's income.
In just one season (November 2024 to March 2025), the cooperative learned a lot about careful coffee processing. Ensambles conducted workshops with the group to further enhance quality. The coffee cherries are now first "floated," i.e., sorted in a water tank. Unripe and overripe cherries float to the surface and are separated. Afterward, the coffee cherries are fermented in barrels. The cherries are placed approximately halfway into the barrels and sealed. A valve allows the CO2 produced during fermentation to escape.
Fermentation times for washed coffees have so far ranged between 20 and 42 hours, but have not yet shown significant results. Times in the barrel for natural experiments were over 60 hours and showed clear, fruity, and chocolatey notes.
Co-investment – how we work
Today, Citlal Kaffen as a cooperative owns the micro-beneficio. The cooperative rents its location from Don Germán, who provides the land on his property.
The investments for the construction of the micro-beneficio and the establishment of the cooperative came from various sources:
- Ensambles: provided workshops on coffee processing and supported the establishment of the cooperative.
- Citlal Kaffen: invested in the form of labor for the construction of the beneficio and through provided building materials.
- Black Hen: financial participation for facilities.
- Kaffeemacher GmbH: financial participation for facilities.
We understand co-investment as a tool to ensure that all involved partners operate on an equal footing. All parties make their contribution, and the project becomes a collaborative effort. As a roastery, we are no longer just buyers, but project partners who, through a monetary contribution, demonstrate that we are not only interested in green coffee, but also in the development of a community and a project on-site.
Innovation in coffee processing
Particularly impressive was the coffee processing process: the coffee cherries are sorted, fermented, and then dried in a solar dryer. During drying and fermentation, there were small challenges: the group found that the fermentation effects were not yet significant, which led to a discussion about whether more time in fermentation would be beneficial to improve the coffee's sensory profile. This remains to be clarified, as fermentation techniques can be further optimized.
In the cupping lab at Ensambles in Coatepec: the coffees were convincing
The new payment system, based on quality and staggered payouts, has also brought about a cultural change in the cooperative.
Step 1:
Producer X brings 100 kg of coffee cherries to the beneficio. She receives 18.50 pesos/kg for first-quality coffee cherries – these are the cherries processed after the floating stage. Second quality is dried and sold in the local market.
Step 2:
The coffee cherries are processed and dried. Once the coffee arrives at Ensambles in Coatepec, it is hulled and sorted. This determines the "Rendimiento" – the yield of green coffee.
Based on the uniformity and density of the green coffee, the second payment is made for each kilo of green coffee from Ensambles to Citlal Kaffen, who then pays the producer.
This dual payment system first had to be established and accepted. However, it quickly became clear that it offered clear financial advantages for all involved. Above all, it facilitates knowledge transfer between Ensambles, who cup the coffee and then sell it to us, and the producers, who benefit from laboratory tips to improve their products.
Once all coffees are completely dried, they are transported from Apixtepec to Coatepec.
Next milestones
- In one year, all producers should have completed organic certification. That will be a major milestone.
- The optimization of fermentation processes continues: Which approaches have a positive impact on taste?
- The parchment will be dried more slowly, which will have a positive impact on the coffee's shelf life.
- The potential for larger quantities of natural coffees will be examined.
- On the fincas, old plants will be replaced with Tabi and Pink Bourbon varieties, which will further increase quality.
We are more than confident that the collaboration with Citlal Kaffen and Ensambles will become even more intensive and look forward to the next steps.
