The Varia VS3 performs very well in almost all test areas. This makes it a top recommendation in the Espresso grinders - entry-level range. We tested the Varia VS3 for many months in the coffee school and at home.
Our goal as coffee grinder testers and roasters is to find the best equipment for you at home so that you can prepare our coffees in the best possible way. With the Varia VS3 we are on a very exciting path.
Small price, small size – good performance?
With a width of just 9 cm, a height of 31 cm and a depth of 14.8 cm (16.3 cm with plug), the Varia VS3 is one of the narrowest grinders on the market. The black or white painted stainless steel body is elegant and looks particularly classy next to black and white machines. The grinder stands solidly on the table despite its low weight of just 3.7 kg.
This aspect of the grinder is a positive surprise overall: the external quality exceeds expectations, given the low price of €370 for an espresso grinder. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder for a mere CHF270 in Switzerland, but this seems to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48mm conical grinder, the core of which has an inner diameter of 38mm. This grinder is made of high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia states that the grinder can last for 150 kg of coffee. This is significantly less than what other manufacturers aim for. If we assume 80 espressos per kilogram, we arrive at 12,000 espresso extractions. The grinder can then be easily changed, especially since Varia offers other cones with different performance levels. We are currently testing these and will add the results later.
But what does the small grinder do and how does the espresso taste? You'll find out in our test video and in this article when it's ready.
Where can I find the mill and which retailers do we recommend?
*We look for specialist partners for you who we know offer good work and good service. We are in close contact with the dealers. These are commission links. If you order via this link, it doesn't cost you any more, but we get a small commission, which we put into new test equipment.
espresso quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard grinding cone delivers solid espresso. The espresso tastes full-bodied and balanced. Nuances of more complex coffees are less pronounced than the round and overall delicious body. The espressos we purchased are round and were sweet and delicious.
We wouldn't say the Varia VS3 is the best choice for more complex coffees. The Varia VS3 seems to us to be a very good grinder for medium roasts. Despite the slow speed, it can produce results more quickly. At the same time, it is well suited to tapping into the flavor potential of the coffee beans.
The particle distribution we measured is good. The main peak is in the middle range with a width of 259 microns, as is the fine fraction at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and scope of delivery
The measuring cup supplied does not fit well into the portafilter because it is too small. You can now order an additional cup that also fits 58mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this is associated with extra costs and the one supplied does not do a good job.
The diameter would not have to be a negative point if the cup was like our KM Becher could be placed on the portafilter. However, the small wings on the side are missing.
Also included is a small spray bottle that can be used to spray water onto the beans before grinding. A recent published study shows that this has a positive effect on the extraction of the coffee. The glass bottle provided initially sprayed well for us, but then it started to show the time during the video recording. That's how it is sometimes.
What is negative: the mill may be compact, but it cannot do without its enormous block power supply. It is as big as many laptops. If you cannot store it under the work surface in your kitchen, you will quickly become annoyed. Someone from our community has found a solution for themselves and has bought a 3D backpack printed for the mill.
New model of the Varia VS3
We tested versions two and three of the Varia VS3. The latest model, which we also discuss in the video, has a slightly more powerful motor and is no longer coated in the inlet area of the grinder. Some users had the problem with the Varia VS3 version two that the motor was not strong enough for lighter beans. This should no longer be the case with the new model.
The coating in the feed chute was elegant, but it caused large static charges. The coffee bean residue always stuck to the side. This has improved, but is still the case.
Static is a problem with the Varia VS3, which is why working with water spray bottles is definitely recommended.
speed or slowness and volume
The Varia VS3 is the slowest espresso grinder we have measured so far. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. In that time you can clean half the espresso machine. The slow speed takes some getting used to and changes your work rhythm, especially if you have already worked with other grinders. If you are not used to faster grinders, the slow grinding time will probably not be a problem.
In addition, the mill emits a penetrating and rather unpleasant humming sound when grinding. At 73 decibels, this is on the quiet side compared to other mills, but it sounds irregular, wobbly and penetrating. It is not the elegant sound of a powerful mill, but sounds like a mill on its last legs. This diminishes the feeling that you are using a high-quality and elegant mill.
The rest of the operation of the mill is greatly reduced. A single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single Dosing Performance
The Varia VS3 is built as a single dosing grinder. To be considered a good single dosing grinder, the grinder should meet two conditions:
- Little dead space remains in the grinding chamber after grinding.
- Easy adjustability between one recipe and the next. It should also be possible to easily return to the original recipe.
The temporary dead space The grinder yields 1.1 grams of coffee. This is a good value, but Single Dosing We have higher demands on grinders. In order to meet these demands, single dosing grinders that do not grind empty often have a bellows to empty the chamber with bellows blows during grinding. If we use this, we get a single dosing dead space of 0.05 grams. That is exemplary.
The bellows can also be removed and the magnetic lid can then be placed directly on the grinder. However, it is then so firmly attached that it is difficult to remove. Tip: twist instead of pulling, then it comes off more easily. However, using the bellows does make sense, which is why the lid scenario without bellows is unlikely to be used very often.
The second criterion, the The Varia VS3 is not convincing in terms of grind reproducibility , at least in particle analysis. We have carried out these measurements on Coffee Excellence Center of the ZHAW in Wädenswil made. In test 4, we set the espresso grind precisely using a standard recipe. The grinder was then set to Ristretto and Lungo and one drink of each type was made. For test 7, we then returned to the previously set recipe and only used the visual marking as a guide.
The resulting particle distribution curve in our measurement shows a very large deviation from the comparison measurement. In particular, the fine fraction was significantly higher in the repeat measurement (31.93%) than in the initial measurement (24.58%).
While the measurement data suggests that it is less easy to adjust between recipes, in practice we have not experienced this large deviation between the extractions. We interpret this to mean that the grinder is not particularly easy to adjust from espresso to ristretto (very fine) then to lungo (coarser) and then back again. This is a shortcoming that occurs more frequently with cheaper grinders.
If only small adjustments are made in everyday life and similar coffees or roasts are used, the Grind reproducibility is less problematic in practice .
Conclusion and result Varia VS3
Despite all the justified criticism of the Varia VS3, we should not forget that the grinder is hard to beat in terms of price-performance. Good espresso quality, little dead space, good consistency and pragmatic usability in a really elegant body with high-quality workmanship - that's what the grinder delivers for 360 euros!
This makes the slow grinding process and the difficulty of adjusting the grinding settings easy to cope with. Our testers were positively surprised by the Varia VS3.
The Varia VS3 is the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro clearly superior, keeps up well DF64 and must also be prepared for a small Eureka Magnifico don't hide. All in all a good and interesting mill!
Where can I find the mill and which retailers do we recommend?
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