In almost all test areas, the Varia VS3 performs very well. This makes it a top recommendation for entry-level espresso grinders. We tested the Varia VS3 for many months at our Coffee School and at home. We looked at both the VS2 and VS3 versions.
As coffee grinder testers and a roastery, our goal is to find the best equipment for you at home so that you can prepare our coffees in the best possible way. With the Varia VS3, we are on a very exciting track.
In the meantime, we have also tested the big sister of the Varia VS3, which was introduced to the market under the name VS6.
Small price, small size – good performance?
With a width of only 9 cm, a height of 31 cm, and a depth of 14.8 cm (16.3 cm with the plug), the Varia VS3 is one of the narrowest grinders on the market. The black or white painted stainless steel body is elegant and looks particularly classy next to black and white machines. Despite its low weight of just 3.7 kg, the grinder stands solidly on the table.
Overall, this aspect of the grinder is a positive surprise: the external quality exceeds expectations, especially considering the low price of €370 for an espresso grinder. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder for a low 270 CHF in Switzerland, though that appeared to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48mm conical burr set, with a core inner diameter of 38mm. This burr set is made from high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia specifies a durability of 150 kg of coffee for the burr set. This is significantly less than what other manufacturers aim for. Assuming 80 espressos per kilogram, we arrive at 12,000 espresso extractions. Afterwards, the burr set can also be easily replaced, especially since Varia offers other cones with different performance characteristics. We are currently testing these and will add the results later.
But how does the small grinder perform and how does the espresso taste? You can find out in our test video and in this article once it is finished.
Espresso quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard burr cone delivers solid espresso. The espresso tastes full-bodied and balanced. Nuances of more complex coffees are less pronounced than the round and overall delicious body. The espressos we pulled were round and were sweet and delicious.
We would not call the Varia VS3 the best choice for more complex coffees. The Varia VS3 seems to us to be a very good grinder for medium roasts. Here, despite the slow speed, it can reach the result faster. At the same time, it is well-suited for extracting the flavor potential inherent in the coffee beans.
The particle distribution we measured is good. The main peak, with a width of 259 microns, is in the mid-range, as is the fines content at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and scope of delivery
The included dosing cup does not fit well in the portafilter because it is too small. There is now an optional cup available for purchase that also fits 58mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this involves extra costs, and the included one does not perform well.
The diameter wouldn't necessarily have to be a negative point if the cup could be placed on the portafilter like our KM cup. However, it lacks the small tabs on the side for that.
Also included is a small spray bottle that can be used to spray water onto the beans before grinding. A recently published study shows that this has a positive influence on the extraction of the coffee. The included glass bottle sprayed well at first, but gave up the ghost during our video recording. That's how it goes sometimes.
What is noticeable in a negative way: the grinder may be compactly built, but it cannot function without its massive external power supply. It is as big as those for many laptops. Anyone who cannot stow this away under the work surface in their kitchen will get annoyed very quickly. Someone from our community found a solution for themselves and printed a 3D backpack for the grinder.
New model of the Varia VS3
We tested versions two and three of the Varia VS3. The newest model, which we also discuss in the video, has a slightly stronger motor and is no longer coated in the chute area of the grinder. Some users had the problem with the Varia VS3 version two that the motor was not strong enough for lighter beans. This should no longer be the case with the new model.
The coating in the feed chute was elegant, but caused large static charges. Residue from the coffee beans always stuck to the sides. This has improved, but is still the case.
Static is a problem with the Varia VS3, which is why working with a water spray bottle is definitely recommended.
Speed, or rather slowness, and volume
The Varia VS3 is the slowest espresso grinder we have measured to date. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. In that time, you could clean half the espresso machine. The slow speed takes some getting used to and, above all, changes the work rhythm if you have already worked with other grinders. If you haven't gotten used to faster grinders, the slow grind time is probably not a problem.
Additionally, the grinder emits a persistent and rather unpleasant humming tone when grinding. Although this is on the quieter side at 73 decibels compared to other grinders, it sounds uneven, wobbling, and persistent. It is not the elegant tone of a powerful grinder, but sounds like a grinder on its last legs. This diminishes the feeling that you are working with a high-quality, elegant grinder.
The rest of the operation of the grinder is highly simplified. A single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single dosing performance
The Varia VS3 is built as a single dosing grinder. To distinguish itself as a good single dosing grinder, the grinder should meet two conditions:
- Little retention that remains in the grinding chamber after grinding.
- Easy adjustability between one recipe and the next. It should also be possible to easily return to the initial recipe.
The temporary retention of the grinder is 1.1 grams of coffee. That is a good value, but we have higher expectations of single dosing grinders. To meet these, single dosing grinders that do not grind empty on their own often have a bellows to empty the chamber with air pulses during grinding. If we use this, we arrive at a single dosing retention of 0.05 grams. This is exemplary.
The bellows can also be removed and the magnetic lid then placed directly onto the grinder. However, it sits so firmly that it is difficult to remove. Tip: Twist instead of pull, and it will release more easily. However, using the bellows makes sense, which is why the lid scenario without the bellows is rarely likely to be used.
Regarding the second criterion, grind setting reproducibility, the Varia VS3 is not convincing, at least in particle analysis. We performed these measurements at the Coffee Excellence Center of the ZHAW in Wädenswil. In test 4, we adjusted the espresso grind precisely based on a standard recipe. Subsequently, the grinder was set to Ristretto and Lungo, and one drink of each type was pulled. For test 7, we then returned to the previously set recipe and oriented ourselves only by the visual marker.
The resulting particle distribution curve shows a very large deviation from the reference measurement in our assessment. In particular, the fines content was significantly higher in the repeat measurement at 31.93% compared to the initial measurement (24.58%).
While the measurement data suggests that adjusting between recipes is less easily possible, we did not experience this strong deviation between shots in practice. We interpret this as meaning that, in particular, the heavy adjustment from espresso to ristretto (very fine) then to lungo (coarser) and then back again is not easy for the grinder. This is a drawback that appears increasingly in cheaper grinders.
If only small adjustments are made in everyday use and similar coffees or roasts are used, the grind setting reproducibility proved to be less problematic in practice.
Workflow with the Varia VS3
With the Varia VS3, single dosing is pre-programmed and, of course, intended. And one thing is quite clear: due to the very high static of the grinder, working with a water spray bottle is not only recommended but almost a must. Firstly, otherwise, a lot of static charge builds up, and the coffee powder sticks to the dosing cup and cannot be fully poured into the portafilter.
Secondly, the extractions are much more irregular without the water sprayer. Quite clearly: with water spraying, the Varia VS3 is an interesting grinder. For us, it is unusable without it!
Burr cones: Upgrade or unnecessary luxury?
Varia offers four different burr cones for the VS3 – from the standard model to the elaborately coated Ultra version. Our tests show: An upgrade can be worth it, but not for everyone.
- Those who prefer classic espressos with lots of body, rather darker roasted and of Italian style, will find a suitable upgrade with the Hypernova Titanium (M46C).
- For clearer, fruitier extractions, the Hypernova Ultra Set (M46D) is suitable – though with less body. It is smooth and even clearer than the Supernova Titanium set.
- Those who want to switch between espresso and filter coffee are best served with the Supernova Titanium (M46B). Medium body in espresso, but plenty of clarity, and the filter coffee performance is also impressive.
- The standard cone remains a solid all-rounder without clear weaknesses.
The decisive factor is which coffee you prefer and whether you really want to engage with the sensory differences. An upgrade is worth it if you are interested in precision, experiments – and even better coffee.
Conclusion and result Varia VS3
Despite all valid criticism of the Varia VS3, we should not overlook the fact that the grinder is hard to beat in terms of price-performance. Good espresso quality, low retention, good consistency, and pragmatic usability in a truly elegant body with high-quality workmanship, that's what the grinder delivers for 360 Euros!
The slow grind time and the difficulty in switching between extreme grind settings are manageable. Our testers were positively surprised by the Varia VS3.
For everyone who wants to start preparing espresso, the Varia VS3 is an interesting espresso grinder. Benjamin Hohlmann
The Varia VS3 is clearly superior to the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro, holds its own well against the DF64, and does not need to hide from a small Eureka Magnifico either. All in all, a good and interesting grinder!
