Unfortunately, coffee quality in the broader gastronomy sector is lagging behind – even in top-tier gastronomy. At the same time, the expectations and knowledge of coffee drinkers are on the rise. What are the reasons for this? Looking for explanations with Julian Graf (Cafetier Suisse), Andreas Caminada (Schloss Schauenstein), and Claude Stahel (Black&Blaze).
Only a few hospitality businesses realize that it is time to improve their coffee. "The days when coffee just 'works' on its own are definitely over," Julian Graf from the industry association Cafetier Suisse tells me.
Guests are becoming more demanding, but many businesses invest too little in coffee quality, even though there are all kinds of options available today. In my conversation with Julian Graf, I was astonished to learn that coffee consumption in the Swiss gastronomy sector is declining – which I see as a positive warning signal for the industry.
However, there are some extremely positive exceptions – Andreas Caminada roasts his own specialty coffee at Schloss Schauenstein and serves top-quality coffee where it is expected: in star-rated gastronomy. Yet, he is also part of a minority. Why is coffee quality in many places not yet where it could be?
Laziness and lack of courage
The word "laziness" keeps coming up in conversations regarding efforts made toward coffee. There is simply much more potential there. According to Graf, many invest in machines, but training lags behind. And, no matter how chic the entire setting may be, if the coffee used itself is not of high quality, then you won't get good coffee out of the machine either.
"Anyone trying to save money on roasted coffee is making a calculation error elsewhere."
Julian Graf, Managing Director, Cafetier Suisse
This calculation error is even made where we would actually expect the best coffee: in star-rated gastronomy. Capsule coffee is served there with what seems to be the greatest conviction. It's like a square peg in a round hole, one would think. And yet, there is a whole range of star-rated chefs who rely on Nespresso.
Fortunately, there are exceptions: together with Claude Stahel, the founder of Black&Blaze, Andreas Caminada built the "smallest roastery in the world." There, the two co-brand the "Atelier Caminada" coffee and sell it on-site, as well as at Jelmoli.
Stahel and Caminada talked for a long time about how to bring specialty coffee into focus and explain it without scaring off guests. Caminada stated logically in the conversation:
It is logical, there simply has to be specialty coffee here. If not here, then where else?
Andreas Caminada, 3-star chef
Guests in this podcast:
- Julian Graf, Managing Director, Cafetier Suisse
- Andreas Caminada, star chef
- Claude Stahel, founder of Black & Blaze Coffee
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Music: Free Music Archive, Focus by A.A.Alto, Creative Commons
