What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

In our series on flavor profiles, we write about why coffee tastes the way it does. For the chapter on Ethiopia, we were able to win over Hannes Fendrich from Coffee Circle – an expert on Ethiopian coffee.

We have known Hannes and Coffee Circle for some time now and are always impressed by the work that Coffee Circle

Author: Hannes Fendrich

• Roaster and green coffee buyer at Coffee Circle Berlin
• German Brewers Cup Champion 2014 and 2016
• follow him on Instagram at @hannesmcmannes

ZVG: Coffee Circle

What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

Ethiopia is not only the presumed birthplace of Arabica coffee. The country has a long coffee tradition and is one of the few coffee-producing countries where coffee consumption is firmly rooted in the culture. As a result, domestic demand for coffee is high and about half of the cultivated coffee remains in the country. Ethiopia is the largest coffee-producing country in Africa and according to ICO data, the world's fifth-largest coffee exporter.

As is so often the case with coffee-specific topics, it is very difficult to make generalizing statements. The same applies to the taste of Ethiopian coffees.

In general, it can be said that Ethiopian coffees are known for floral and fruity flavor notes and have a rather light body.

In specific individual cases, it depends on numerous factors such as the region within the country, local varieties, altitude, processing, etc. So coffee from the same region in Ethiopia (as in all other growing countries) can taste quite different from one another.

Before we go into the different regions in Ethiopia, to which certain profiles can generally be assigned, first a few Ethiopian specifics:

Processing: Washed vs. Unwashed

The two dominant processing methods are washed and unwashed (fully natural). Washed coffees from Limu, Sidamo and Yirgacheffe taste noticeably more nuanced, finer and have a lighter body than unwashed coffees. Unwashed coffees are often very fruity and berry-like, and have a wine-like acidity.

Although washed coffees are more often relevant in the specialty coffee world, it is interesting to know that more than two-thirds (approximately 70 to 80%) of Ethiopian coffees are processed unwashed. The climatic conditions for pure sun drying are optimal in Ethiopia and in some coffee regions, water is rather a scarce resource.

Processes like "honey processed" and experiments with certain fermentation methods are currently still very rare. The reason for this is that it has so far been very rarely possible for exporters to process micro lots. Micro lots have no tradition in the Ethiopian coffee system and so exporters usually don't have the right machines to process smaller coffee lots. A shift is just beginning here, so this trend is likely to increase in the future.

ZVG: Coffee Circle

Variety Richness

The Ethiopian highlands in the western part of the country are the birthplace of Arabica coffee, and so it comes about that Ethiopia, of all coffee-cultivating countries, has the greatest genetic diversity of Arabica varieties.

To date, the JARC (Jimma Agriculture Research Center) in Ethiopia has isolated approximately 3,000 "coffee accessions" in their research facilities, but they have not yet genetically analyzed all of them. So there is an incredibly high genetic diversity in Ethiopia with up to 3,000 possible Arabica varieties.

Often Ethiopian coffee varieties are summarized as "heirloom varieties," which is not strictly correct. A more accurate term is "local landraces," that is, the local landraces of Arabica.

Hannes Fendrich

These traditional, local varieties differ by region, which certainly contributes to the different flavor profile in each region. The most accurate classification is into varieties released by the JARC and the local landraces. Since most coffee is produced by smallholder farmers and they often cultivate different varieties, it is currently still rare to have the opportunity to taste pure varietal coffees. With the increase in privately run farms that we are seeing at the moment, this will hopefully become more common in the future.

Hannes Fendrich and Martin Elwert (both Coffee Circle) visit partner producers in Ethiopia (ZVG: Coffee Circle)

Growing Conditions, Soil, Microclimate:

Of course, growing conditions play a major role. In Ethiopia too, it has proven true that the very high altitude growing regions in Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Limu produce the best qualities.

Fermentation and Processing

Washed coffee:

The coffee cherries are primarily washed and wet fermented in the south, that is, Sidamo and Yirgacheffe, in the traditional way.

First, the pulp is mechanically removed and the bean with the mucilage is placed in water tanks for fermentation. Depending on the wet mill, this happens for a period of approximately 18 to 48 hours. After that, the beans are removed from the water tank and guided in the "washing channels" with wooden rakes into another water tank.

This happens under the pressure triggered by the wooden rakes, and thereby a large portion of the mucilage is removed. The remaining mucilage residues are then removed in the final station, the water tank, in which the parchment coffee is once again soaked overnight in fresh water.

It is known that this classic fermentation method has high water consumption, which is over 20 liters of water per kg of ripe cherries. This high water consumption is controversial from an ecological perspective. Therefore, there is an increasing movement towards eco-pulpers, a machine that, after pulping the bean, mechanically removes the mucilage from the parchment coffee through friction.

This parchment coffee then goes into water basins overnight, where the last remains of the mucilage dissolve. The next day, the coffee is already transferred to the drying bed. Technically speaking, there is actually no fermentation taking place with this eco-pulped coffee.

A major advantage is that this type of processing only requires water consumption of 1 to 2 liters of water per kg of ripe cherries and is thus considered much more environmentally friendly than traditional processing.

The following is an overview of the regions and their "typical" flavors, that is, a very generalized view, divided into east, south and west. Coffee is also cultivated in a few areas in the north of Ethiopia, but these are rather negligible due to small quantities. (Photo: ZVG Hannes Fendrich. An older overview of the different coffee regions in Ethiopia)

The Classic Regions: Harar, Sidamo, Yirgacheffe

The East: Harar

Unwashed coffees traditionally come from the Harar region in the east of the country, where a very dry climate prevails and the coffee cherries usually dry right on the coffee plant. As a result, unwashed coffee from Harar develops very chocolatey and blueberry notes and is often associated with the classic Mocha flavor and a full body. In the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, Ethiopia was internationally known primarily for its Harar coffees. That has changed somewhat over the last few decades. Also because the climate there has become increasingly dry and coffee yields in Harar have declined sharply. Moreover, it is difficult to find clean unwashed coffees from Harar, which is why these coffees hardly appear in the specialty coffee scene. Particularly since the price for good Harar qualities is comparatively high. Nevertheless, coffee from Harar enjoys a large following, particularly in the Asian market.

The South: Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Guji

The area for Sidamo coffees extends over a wide area and ranges south from Jawassa to the Bale Mountains. As widespread as the area for Sidamo coffees is, so varied is the flavor profile.

Sidamo

The best qualities of washed coffees from Sidamo have a fruity and very distinctive flavor profile with a citric acidity. Among the best growing areas in Sidamo are the districts of Bensa, Chire and Arbegona, where growing altitudes reach up to 2,300 meters. These coffees have a zesty acidity and taste reminiscent of ripe citrus fruits and black tea.

Yirgacheffe

Washed coffees from the southwestern neighboring region of Yirgacheffe, on the other hand, are somewhat more floral and have a lower acidity. The outstanding qualities contain a complex aroma of Earl Grey tea or bergamot and ripe orange.

Guji

In the last two years, the Guji region has increasingly come into focus of specialty roasters because coffees from Guji have grown very high and offer an extraordinary flavor profile. It reminds me of the crème de la crème of Yirgacheffe coffees: they are very floral and tea-like coffees with high sweetness from ripe stone fruits. There is also the theory that since Guji was recognized as an independent coffee region, the washing stations in Yirgacheffe have come under pressure and many farmers from the high altitude areas no longer deliver their ripe cherries to Yirgacheffe but now to washing stations in Guji. This could explain why it has become more difficult in recent years to find top qualities in Yirgacheffe.

Unwashed qualities from Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Guji can be very fruity and complex. Typically, the acidity is somewhat "winey". The aroma, in the best cases, is reminiscent of tropical fruits such as mango, papaya and ripe orange. Yirgacheffe coffees are somewhat more floral and in Sidamos and Guji coffees the acidity is often somewhat more prominent. In terms of body, these coffees are fuller and creamier than their washed counterparts and the acidity is distinctly wine-like. For both washed and unwashed qualities, the best coffees remind me in character more of tea than coffee.