What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

In our series on flavor profiles, we write about why coffee tastes the way it does. For the chapter on Ethiopia, we were able to enlist Hannes Fendrich from Coffee Circle – an expert in Ethiopian coffee.

We have known Hannes and Coffee Circle for some time now and are always impressed by the work Coffee Circle

Author: Hannes Fendrich

• Roaster and green coffee buyer at Coffee Circle Berlin
• German Brewers Cup Champion 2014 and 2016
• Follow him on Instagram at @hannesmcmannes

Copyright: Coffee Circle

What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

Ethiopia is not only the presumed birthplace of Arabica coffee. The country has a long coffee tradition; it is one of the few coffee-producing countries where coffee consumption is deeply rooted in the culture. As a result, domestic demand for coffee is high, and almost half of the cultivated coffee remains in the country. Ethiopia is the largest coffee-producing country in Africa and, according to ICO data, the fifth largest coffee exporter in the world.

As is often the case with coffee-specific topics, it is very difficult to make generalizations. The same applies to the taste of Ethiopian coffees.

Generally, Ethiopian coffees are known for floral and fruity flavor notes and tend to have a lighter body.

In specific individual cases, it then depends on numerous factors such as the region within the country, the local varieties, the altitude, the processing, etc. Thus, coffee from the same region in Ethiopia (as in all other growing countries) can differ significantly in taste.

Before we delve into the different regions in Ethiopia, which can generally also be assigned certain profiles, let's first look at some Ethiopian specifics:

Processing: Washed vs. Unwashed

The two dominant processing methods are washed and unwashed (fully natural). Washed coffees from Limu, Sidamo, and Yirgacheffe taste significantly more nuanced, finer, and have a lighter body than unwashed coffees. Unwashed coffees are often very fruity and berry-like, and have a wine-like acidity.

Although washed coffees are often more relevant in the specialty coffee world, it is interesting to know that more than two-thirds (approx. 70 to 80%) of Ethiopian coffees are processed unwashed. The climatic conditions for pure sun-drying are optimal in Ethiopia, and in some coffee regions, water tends to be scarce.

Processing methods such as “honey processed” and experiments with specific fermentation methods are still very rare. The reason for this is that it has been very difficult for exporters to process micro-lots so far. Micro-lots have no tradition in the Ethiopian coffee system, and so exporters usually do not have the appropriate machinery to process smaller coffee lots. However, a change is currently taking place, so this trend is expected to increase in the future.

Copyright: Coffee Circle

Variety Richness

The Ethiopian highlands in the west of the country are the birthplace of Arabica coffee, and so it is that Ethiopia has the greatest genetic diversity of Arabica varieties of all coffee-cultivating countries.

To date, the JARC (Jimma Agriculture Research Center) in Ethiopia has isolated approximately 3,000 “coffee accessions” in its research facilities, but they have not yet genetically evaluated all of them. Thus, there is an incredibly high genetic diversity in Ethiopia with up to 3,000 possible Arabica varieties.

Ethiopian coffee varieties are often collectively referred to as "Heirloom varieties," which is not technically correct. A more accurate term is "local landraces" of Arabica.

Hannes Fendrich

These traditional, local varieties differ by region, which certainly contributes to the different flavor profiles in the respective regions. The most accurate division is into varieties released by the JARC and local landraces. Since most coffee is produced by "smallholder" farmers and they often cultivate different varieties, it is currently rare to have the opportunity to taste single-varietal coffees. With the increase in privately owned farms that we are currently seeing, this will hopefully become more common in the future.

Hannes Fendrich and Martin Elwert (both Coffee Circle) visiting partner producers in Ethiopia (Copyright: Coffee Circle)

Growing Conditions, Soil, Microclimate:

Of course, growing conditions play a major role. It has also been proven in Ethiopia that the very high-altitude growing regions in Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Limu produce the best qualities.

Fermentation and Processing

Washed coffee:

Coffee cherries in the south, i.e., Sidamo and Yirgacheffe, are primarily washed and wet-fermented in a traditional manner.

First, the pulp is mechanically removed, and the bean with the mucilage is placed in water tanks for fermentation. Depending on the wet mill, this occurs for a period of approx. 18 to 48 hours. Afterwards, the beans are released from the water tank and "guided" into another water tank in "washing channels" with wooden hooks.

This happens under the pressure exerted by the wooden hooks, which removes most of the mucilage. The last remnants of mucilage are then removed at the final station, the water tank, where the parchment coffee is soaked overnight in fresh water again.

It is known that this classic fermentation method has a high water consumption, exceeding 20 liters of water per kg of red cherries. This high water consumption is controversial from an ecological perspective. Therefore, there is a growing movement towards eco-pulpers, i.e., a machine that, after pulping the bean, also mechanically removes the mucilage from the parchment coffee through friction.

This parchment coffee then goes into water basins overnight, where the last residues of mucilage are removed. The next day, the coffee is already transferred to drying beds. Technically, no fermentation takes place with this eco-pulped coffee.

A major advantage is that this type of processing only uses 1 to 2 liters of water per kg of red cherries and is therefore considered significantly more ecological than traditional processing.

Below is an overview of the regions and their "typical" flavors, i.e., a very generalized view, divided into East, South, and West. Coffee is also cultivated in a few areas in northern Ethiopia, but these are largely negligible due to the small quantities. (Photo: Copyright Hannes Fendrich. An older overview of the different coffee regions in Ethiopia)

The classic regions: Harar, Sidamo, Yirgacheffe

The East: Harar

The unwashed coffees traditionally come from the Harar region in the east of the country, where a very dry climate prevails and the coffee cherries usually even dry on the coffee bush. As a result, unwashed coffee from Harar develops very chocolatey and blueberry notes and is often associated with the classic mocha taste and a full body. In the 1950s, 60s, and 70s, Ethiopia was internationally known primarily for its Harar coffees. This has changed somewhat in recent decades. Also because the local climate has become increasingly drier and coffee yields in Harar have fallen sharply. In addition, it is difficult to find clean unwashed coffees from Harar, which is why these coffees rarely appear in the specialty coffee scene. Especially since the price for good Harar qualities is comparatively high. Nevertheless, coffee from Harar enjoys a large following, especially in the Asian market.

The South: Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Guji

The area for Sidamo coffees extends over a wide region and reaches south from Jawassa to the Bale Mountains. As extensive as the area for Sidamo coffees is, so diverse is its flavor profile.

Sidamo

The best qualities of washed coffees from Sidamo have a fruity and very distinctive flavor profile with a citrus acidity. Among the best growing areas in Sidamo are the districts of Bensa, Chire, and Arbegona, where altitudes reach up to 2,300 meters. These coffees have a vibrant acidity and taste reminiscent of ripe citrus fruits and black tea.

Yirgacheffe

Washed coffees from the southwestern neighboring region of Yirgacheffe, however, are somewhat more floral and have a lower acidity. The outstanding qualities harbor a complex aroma of Earl Grey tea or bergamot and ripe orange.

Guji

In the last two years, the Guji region has increasingly come into focus for specialty roasters because coffees from Guji are very tall and deliver an extraordinary flavor profile. It reminds me of the crème de la crème of Yirgacheffe coffees: they are very floral and tea-like coffees with a high sweetness of ripe stone fruits. There is also the theory that since Guji was recognized as an independent coffee region, washing stations in Yirgacheffe have come under pressure and many farmers from the high-altitude areas no longer deliver their ripe cherries to Yirgacheffe, but now to washing stations in Guji. This could explain why it has become more difficult to find top qualities in Yirgacheffe in recent years.

Unwashed qualities from Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Guji can be very fruity and complex. Typically, the acidity is somewhat "winey." In the best cases, the aroma is reminiscent of tropical fruits such as mango, papaya, and ripe orange. Yirgacheffe coffees are again somewhat more floral, and in Sidamos and Guji coffees, the acidity is often somewhat more prominent. In terms of body, these coffees are fuller and creamier than their washed counterparts, and the acidity is significantly more wine-like. In both washed and unwashed qualities, the best coffees remind me more of tea than coffee in character.