What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

In our series on flavor profiles, we write about why coffee tastes the way it does. For the Ethiopia chapter, we've enlisted Hannes Fendrich from Coffee Circle—an expert on Ethiopian coffee.

We have known Hannes and Coffee Circle for a while now and are always impressed by the work that Coffee Circle

Author: Hannes Fendrich

• Roasters and green coffee buyers at Coffee Circle Berlin
• German Brewers Cup Champion 2014 and 2016
• follow him on Instagram at @hannesmcmannes

ZVG: Coffee Circle

What does coffee from Ethiopia taste like?

Ethiopia is not only the presumed birthplace of Arabica coffee. The country has a long coffee tradition and is one of the few coffee-producing countries where coffee consumption is deeply embedded in the culture. Domestic demand for coffee is high, and almost half of the coffee grown stays in the country. Ethiopia is the largest coffee-producing country in Africa and, according to ICO data, the fifth-largest coffee exporter in the world.

As is often the case with coffee-specific topics, it's very difficult to make generalized statements. The same applies to the taste of Ethiopian coffee.

In general, Ethiopian coffees are known for their floral and fruity flavors and their rather light body.

In each specific case, it depends on numerous factors such as the region within the country, the local varieties, the altitude, the processing, etc. Thus, coffee from the same region in Ethiopia (as in all other growing countries) can differ significantly in taste.

Before we discuss the different regions in Ethiopia, to which specific profiles can generally be assigned, let us first consider a few Ethiopian specifics:

Processing: Washed vs. unwashed

The two dominant processing methods are washed and unwashed (fully natural). Washed coffees from Limu, Sidamo, and Yirgacheffe taste significantly more nuanced, finer, and have a lighter body than unwashed coffees. Unwashed coffees are often very fruity and berry-like, with a wine-like acidity.

Although washed coffees are often more relevant in the specialty coffee world, it's interesting to note that more than two-thirds (approximately 70 to 80%) of Ethiopian coffees are processed unwashed. The climatic conditions for pure sun-drying are optimal in Ethiopia, and in some coffee-growing regions, water tends to be a scarce commodity.

Processing methods such as "honey processed" and experiments with certain fermentation methods are currently very rare. The reason for this is that exporters have rarely been able to process micro lots. Micro lots have no tradition in the Ethiopian coffee system, and thus exporters usually lack the appropriate machinery to process smaller coffee lots. Here, too, a change is just beginning to emerge, so this trend will increase in the future.

ZVG: Coffee Circle

Variety

The Ethiopian highlands in the west of the country are the birthplace of Arabica coffee, and as a result, Ethiopia has the greatest genetic diversity of Arabica varieties of all coffee-growing countries.

To date, the JARC (Jimma Agriculture Research Center) in Ethiopia has isolated approximately 3,000 coffee accessions in its research facilities, but they have not yet genetically evaluated all of them. Thus, there is an incredibly high level of genetic diversity in Ethiopia, with up to 3,000 possible Arabica varieties.

Ethiopian coffee varieties are often referred to as "heirloom varieties," which isn't strictly speaking correct. A more accurate term is "local landraces," meaning the local landraces of Arabica.

Hannes Fendrich

These traditional, local varieties differ by region, which certainly contributes to the distinct flavor profiles in each region. The most accurate classification is the one published by the JARC (Joint Coffee Association) and the local landraces. Since most coffee is produced by smallholder farmers, who often cultivate different varieties, the opportunity to taste single-origin varietal coffees is currently rare. With the current increase in privately owned farms, this will hopefully become more common in the future.

Hannes Fendrich and Martin Elwert (both Coffee Circle) visit partner producers in Ethiopia (ZVG: Coffee Circle)

Growing conditions, soil, microclimate:

Naturally, growing conditions play a major role. It has also been proven in Ethiopia that the very high-altitude growing regions of Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Limu produce the best quality.

Fermentation and processing

Washed coffee:

In the south, i.e. Sidamo and Yirgacheffe, the coffee cherries are mainly washed and wet fermented in the traditional way.

First, the pulp is mechanically removed, and the beans, along with the mucilage, are placed in water tanks for fermentation . Depending on the wet mill, this takes place for a period of approximately 18 to 48 hours. The beans are then removed from the water tank and guided into another water tank via "washing lines" using wooden hooks.

This occurs under pressure exerted by the wooden hooks, which loosens a large portion of the mucilage. The remaining mucilage residue then dissolves in the final stage, the water tank, where the parchment coffee is soaked in fresh water overnight.

It is well known that this classic fermentation method has a high water consumption, reaching over 20 liters of water per kilogram of red cherries. This high water consumption is controversial from an ecological perspective. Therefore, there is a growing movement toward eco-pulpers, i.e., machines that, after pulping the beans, also mechanically remove the mucilage from the parchment coffee through friction.

This parchment coffee is then placed in water tanks overnight, where the last remnants of the mucilage are removed. The next day, the coffee is transferred to the drying beds. Technically speaking, no fermentation takes place at all with this eco-pulped coffee.

A major advantage is that this type of processing only requires 1 to 2 liters of water per kg of red cherries and is therefore considered significantly more ecological than traditional processing.

What follows is an overview of the regions and their "typical" flavors, a very generalized view divided into east, south, and west. Coffee is also cultivated in a few areas in northern Ethiopia, but these are rather negligible due to the small quantities produced. (Photo: ZVG Hannes Fendrich. An older overview of the different coffee regions in Ethiopia)

The classic regions: Harar, Sidamo, Yirgacheffe

The East: Harar

The unwashed coffees traditionally come from the Harar region in the east of the country, where a very dry climate prevails and the coffee cherries usually even dry on the coffee bush. As a result, the unwashed coffee from Harar develops strong chocolate and blueberry notes and is often associated with the classic mocha taste and a full body. In the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, Ethiopia was internationally known primarily for its Harar coffees. This has changed somewhat in recent decades, partly because the local climate has become increasingly drier and coffee yields in Harar have declined sharply. In addition, it is difficult to find clean unwashed coffees from Harar, which is why these coffees rarely appear in the specialty coffee scene. Especially since the price for good Harar qualities is comparatively high. Nevertheless, coffee from Harar enjoys a large following, particularly in the Asian market.

The South: Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Guji

The Sidamo coffee region covers a vast area, stretching south from Jawassa to the Bale Mountains. The flavor profile is just as diverse as the vastness of the Sidamo coffee region.

Sidamo

The best washed coffees from Sidamo have a fruity and very distinctive flavor profile with citrus acidity. Among the best growing areas in Sidamo are the districts of Bensa, Chire, and Arbegona, where the coffees reach elevations of up to 2,300 meters. These coffees have a tangy acidity and a flavor reminiscent of ripe citrus fruits and black tea.

Yirgacheffe

Washed coffees from the neighboring region of Yirgacheffe to the southwest, on the other hand, are somewhat more floral and have lower acidity. Their outstanding qualities include complex aromas of Earl Grey tea, bergamot, and ripe orange.

Guji

Over the past two years, the Guji region has increasingly attracted the attention of specialty roasters because the coffees from Guji are very tall and deliver exceptional flavor. It reminds me of the crème de la crème of Yirgacheffe coffees: they are very floral and tea-like coffees with a high sweetness from ripe stone fruits. There is also a theory that since Guji was recognized as an independent coffee region, the washing stations in Yirgacheffe have come under pressure, and many farmers from the high-altitude regions no longer deliver their ripe cherries to Yirgacheffe, but now to washing stations in Guji. This could explain why it has become more difficult to find top-quality coffees in Yirgacheffe in recent years.

Unwashed varieties from Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Guji can be very fruity and complex. The acidity is typically a bit winey. The aromas, in the best cases, are reminiscent of tropical fruits like mango, papaya, and ripe orange. Yirgacheffe coffees, on the other hand, are somewhat more floral, and in Sidamo and Guji coffees, the acidity is often more prominent. These coffees are fuller-bodied and creamier than their washed counterparts, and the acidity is noticeably more wine-like. In both the washed and unwashed varieties, the best coffees remind me more of tea than coffee in character.