Mahlkönig X54 – Espresso grinder for home

The Mahlkönig X54 espresso grinder is now available. Designed for both espresso and filter coffee, the X54 is a versatile coffee grinder designed for home coffee drinkers. Its price is very competitive at €460, opening up a new price segment for industry leader Mahlkönig.

We took a first look at the Mahlkönig X54 when it was released. Since then, we've followed up with a detailed review as part of our extensive espresso grinder test series . You'll learn everything you need to know about dead space , consistency, and particle distribution in this report.

We've placed the Mahlkönig X54 in comparison group 4 and compare it with the Eureka Specialià, the Lelit PL72, and the G-Iota. The additional videos and the comparison video will be published in March 2022.

Buy Mahlkönig X54

The following specialist retailers sell the Mahlkönig X54, and we recommend purchasing a machine from them. They all offer offset adjustment.

Germany: [Affiliate links]*: Stoll Espresso , Craft Coffee Gear , Bean dealer

Austria: [Affiliate links]*: Bean dealer

*We are looking for specialist partners for you who we know offer good work and excellent service. We maintain close contact with the dealers. These are commission links. If you order through these links, it doesn't cost you any extra, but we receive a small commission, which we invest in new test equipment. We are continuing to work on this and are looking for competent partners for you in the DACH region.

First impression – the exterior of the X54

The Vario from Mahlkönig was previously the entry-level grinder from the Swiss-German coffee grinder group. It felt like it was in my home a decade ago, too – a grinder that seemed like an alien element in an otherwise high-quality range of coffee grinders. Mahlkönig simply didn't make grinders for beginners – or if they did, they only made them with the handbrake on – that was my conclusion at the time when using the plastic gun. When I think back to adjusting the grind setting using the two levers, I still get cramps.

I was all the more excited about the announcement of the X54. A proper grinder—an "all-around home grinder" with an espresso focus. That's quite demanding! Precision in the fine espresso particle range demands a lot from a grinder and is rarely accompanied by a good grind setting down to the filter range.

The first impression of the X54 was quite impressive. The machine feels very high-quality and well-made. At around 5 kg, it's on the light side, but still feels solid. The exterior of the X54 resembles the smaller E65 or the Anfim Practica, which, like Mahlkönig, are part of the Hemro Group .

View of the Mahlkönig X54.

The bean hopper is made of fairly durable plastic. It can withstand the odd knock. This is much better than previous Mahlkönig grinders. The bean hopper mount is also solid. No more tedious snapping and breaking like with the K30 or Peak. The grind adjustment feels as high-quality as the display works well. It's a joy!

Constancy of the mill – cover by cover

A reliable amount of ground coffee is an important factor for setting up a clean espresso. We measured 10 shots each for espresso and filter coffee. The grinder fluctuates by +/- 0.3g of the target grind size. This isn't perfect, but completely acceptable for a grinder for home use. However, it was noticeable that there were occasional outliers. For example, on one occasion only 16.5 grams of coffee were ejected instead of the target amount of 18 grams, but the next grind produced a larger amount. Unfortunately, the Mahlkönig X54 has a tendency to occasionally retain coffee grounds beyond the usual dead space. This grounds stick to the relatively large open area around the grinding discs and then dissolve during a subsequent grind.

New grinders initially produce more static charge until the grinding discs have run in a bit. The static charge was limited and not noticeably high. Once the grinder has completed 100 grinding cycles, the static of the particles will decrease, and the fluctuation will likely settle at 0.2 to 0.3 grams.

Particle distribution and espresso quality

The initial impression of the particle distribution is positive and matches many of the good espressos we've had with the Mahlkönig X54. As part of our T4 test, we again adjusted the espresso grinder to brew an espresso with our Apas training espresso, weighing 18 grams, and a 45-gram espresso beverage weight in 25 seconds.

The measurement shows a low fineness of 19.6% compared to other grinders, while also showing a relatively narrow main peak of 236 microns. Sensorily, this translates into clear espresso textures, a relatively low unpleasant bitterness, and good extraction performance.

Unfortunately, the mill didn't always produce the same distribution. The diagram above and the following one clearly show this.

At T3 and T4, the grinder was set to the target espresso recipe. After T4, a ristretto (T5) and a café crème (T6, see diagram above) were brewed. For T7, the grinder was set back to the same mark on the grind dial, using the best possible setting.

In all cases, the curves and measurements deviated from each other. This manifested itself in "jumping" extraction results and espresso quality. However, in all cases, the results were within a good range, which is why the fluctuations are less significant. Nevertheless, the large fluctuations were a negative surprise.

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Stepless or 35 steps on the X54?

Mahlkönig itself made a mistake in its communication here, and some resellers have copied this. The grinder doesn't have 35 settings, but is stepless. However, it does have a scale that extends over 35 digits or graduations.

When adjusting the grind size, there's no resistance or ratcheting. Conversely, this means the grinder can be adjusted with infinite precision. We easily switched the grinder from espresso to filter and back again. When it comes to espresso, it takes a few more shots to nail the perfect espresso extraction. That's our first impression. We'll examine this part of the grinder in more detail. At first glance, the grinder seems significantly more flexible than many classic espresso grinders.

Grinding level setting of the X54.

In principle, we're more in favor of using one grinder just for espresso and another for filter coffee. We'll let you know whether the Mahlkönig X54 changes our minds after further testing.

Dead space – the forgotten ground material in the mill

Dead space is the space in the grinder that remains empty of coffee grounds after each grinding cycle. Depending on the grinder geometry, burr design, and surrounding area, more or less coffee grounds remain in the grinder. This ground material is the first to be pushed out of the grinder when more coffee beans are ground during the next grinding cycle. At the end of each grinding cycle, more grounds remain.

When checking the dead space, we distinguish between areas in the grinder where the coffee grounds aren't replaced every time and areas where the coffee grounds are replaced with every grind. For example, coffee grounds can become stuck in the openings of screw heads over time, which then aren't replaced with every grind.

Plenty of room for old coffee grounds.

The dead space of the X54 is relatively large. A lot of coffee grounds accumulate in the area of ​​the carriers and in front of the flapper. In July 2021, we measured a dead space of 7.6 grams with an espresso grind on our new grinder. Mahlkönig has since improved this by changing the strength and size of the flapper. And even though we didn't believe it at first, the new flapper reduces the dead space to 4.1 grams, which is significantly better.

The smaller flapper on the right in the picture replaces the new flapper. The conversion can easily be done at home. Anyone who bought one of the early models should replace the flapper.

Why is adjustment so important? Dead space becomes clogged with old coffee. This is then used to prepare the next espresso. To put this into perspective: a double espresso with 18g of ground coffee would consist of more than a third of "old" ground coffee. A single espresso of 9 or 10 grams... well, that would be made predominantly with old ground coffee.

Single dosing and ways to combat dead space

Also, due to the large dead space, the X54 is clearly not a grinder designed for single-serve grinding. Too much old coffee remains in the area surrounding the burrs. It's a shame that Mahlkönig hasn't kept up with the times and taken these market impulses into account, working on a smaller dead space. Niche is leading the way, and Eureka, with its "Blow Up System," at least offers approaches to dealing with dead space.

Dead space isn't a problem if the next espresso is brewed immediately. It becomes problematic if the espresso isn't ready until the next morning. So how do you deal with such a problem when a grinder is otherwise performing well? A quick grind in between is the best approach.

The X54 in particular allows for four programmable grinding quantities. Grinding quantity 1 can be set so that the dead space is first emptied and refilled when the grinder is used. Only then can the actual grinding quantity be applied to grinding level 2, for example.

In our extensive espresso grinder test, we tested a grinder's single-dosing capability as follows: We ground the grinder until it was empty. We then removed the coffee beans from the bean hopper. We then weighed out 18 grams and added them. The grinder then ground for 30 seconds. The test criterion was how reliably the grinder ejected all the coffee grounds within this time.

Here, the aforementioned clogging problem occurred again. While the grinder usually only retained small amounts of 0.2 grams, some outliers with up to 1.2 grams ruined the result. In our opinion, 0.2 grams would be a good result. But 1.2 grams is a poor result. In any case, reweighing is necessary with the X54.

How fast and loudly does the X54 grinder from Mahlkönig grind?

We managed a grinding time of 16.5 seconds to obtain 18 grams of coffee grounds for our espresso from the APAS cooperative. The roast is on the darker side for our standards, so it's a medium roast overall. Lighter roasts will take longer, while darker roasts will be faster due to the coffee's brittleness.

In 10 seconds, the grinder reached a grinding quantity of 13.7 grams, making it one of the slowest espresso grinders in the test.

Home espresso grinders, in particular, are often not only loud but also sound "cramped," clunky, and "unhealthy." In comparison, the 81.8-decibel hum of the Mahlkönig X54 is more like a purr. This puts the grinder in the better middle range of all the tested grinders.

Temperature and bean container

One of the positive results is the relatively low temperature of the grinding discs, or rather the low temperature transferred to the coffee grounds. Over six grinding cycles, the ground coffee reached a temperature of 31.1°C, and even then, it only increased by 1.2°C. We do not expect any negative sensory effects on the ground coffee within this temperature range.

The X54's bean hopper is very easy to remove with a practical slider. It closes securely, and the entire mounting system feels very high-quality. However, 20.8 grams of beans remain below the slider. This is a medium amount. Quickly changing coffee varieties is possible, but requires grinding or turning the grinder.

Conclusion and your experiences

So much for our first review of the Mahlkönig X54. The grinder delivers a lot of good things and, above all, makes a statement with its craftsmanship. It's also easy to use, and overall, the grinder feels very high-quality. The improved dead space is an important step. However, the espresso grinder has other issues with the grinding chamber. Too often, the coffee grounds aren't ground reliably. Too often, the amount of coffee fluctuates, and when you open the grinder, you see a lot of grounds sticking around the grinding discs. This tarnishes the good impression.

However, if you weigh the ground coffee quickly and don't grind directly into the portafilter, the X54 is a very good grinder in terms of value for money. The aftermarket is secure, and so is the repairability. This is particularly problematic with cheaper grinders, such as those from Sage .

The X54 makes excellent espresso. This is the most important aspect, and for this reason, we can definitely recommend the grinder, despite some suggestions for improvement.

If you want to learn more about making espresso, check out our course program at our coffee schools in Switzerland and Germany. If traveling to us is too far, our online home barista course might be an option for you.

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We're interested in hearing about your experiences with the new Mahlkönig grinder. Do you share our impressions, or do you disagree? What do you like and what do you dislike? We're curious to hear about your experiences.