The Varia VS3 performs very well in almost all test areas, making it a top recommendation in the entry-level espresso grinder segment. We tested the Varia VS3 over many months in the coffee school and at home. Both the VS2 and VS3 versions were examined.
Our goal as coffee grinder testers and roastery is to find the best equipment for you at home, so you can prepare our coffees as optimally as possible. With the Varia VS3, we are on a very exciting track.
Meanwhile, we have also tested the Varia VS3's big sister, which was launched under the name VS6.
Small price, small size – good performance?
With a width of only 9 cm, a height of 31 cm, and a depth of 14.8 cm (16.3 cm with plug), the Varia VS3 is one of the slimmest grinders on the market. The black or white lacquered stainless steel body is elegant and looks particularly classy next to black and white machines. Despite its low weight of only 3.7 kg, the grinder stands solidly on the table.
This aspect of the grinder is overall positively surprising: the external quality exceeds expectations, given a low price of €370 for an espresso grinder. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder for a low 270 CHF in Switzerland, which, however, appears to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48mm conical burr set, whose core has an inner diameter of 38mm. This burr set is made of high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia states a durability of 150 kg of coffee for the burr set. This is significantly less than what other manufacturers aim for. Assuming 80 espressos per kilogram, we arrive at 12,000 espresso extractions. Afterwards, the burr set can also be easily replaced, especially since Varia offers other cones with different performances. We are currently testing these and will supplement the results later.
But what does the small grinder achieve and how does the espresso taste? You will find out in our test video and in this article when it is finished.
Espresso Quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard burr cone delivers solid espresso. The espresso tastes full-bodied and balanced. Nuances of more complex coffees are less pronounced than the round and overall delicious body. The espressos we brewed were round, sweet, and delicious.
We would not name the Varia VS3 as the best choice for more complex coffees. The Varia VS3 appears to us to be a very good grinder for medium roasts. Here, despite its slow speed, it can achieve results faster. At the same time, it is well-suited to bring out the flavor potential inherent in the coffee beans.
The particle distribution we measured is good. The main peak, with a width of 259 microns, is in the middle range, as is the fine particle content at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and Scope of Delivery
The included dosing cup does not fit well into the portafilter as it is too small. A purchasable cup is now available that also fits 58mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this comes with extra costs, and the included one does not do a good job.
The diameter would not have to be a negative point if the cup, like our KM cup, could be placed on the portafilter. However, the small wings on the side are missing for that.
Also included is a small spray bottle, with which water can be sprayed onto the beans before grinding. A recently published study shows that this has a positive influence on coffee extraction. The included glass bottle initially sprayed well for us, but then gave up during the video recording. That's how it sometimes goes.
What is negatively noticeable: the grinder may be compactly built, but it cannot do without its enormous power adapter. It is as large as those for many laptops. Anyone who cannot store it under the countertop in their kitchen will quickly become annoyed. Someone from our community found a solution for themselves and printed a 3D backpack for the grinder.
New Model of the Varia VS3
We tested versions two and three of the Varia VS3. The newest model, which we also discuss in the video, has a slightly stronger motor and the intake area of the grinder is no longer coated. Some users had a problem with Varia VS3 version two, where the motor was not strong enough for lighter beans. This should no longer be the case with the new model.
The coating in the intake chute was elegant, but caused significant static charges. Coffee bean residues always stuck to the side. This has improved, but is still present.
Static is a problem with the Varia VS3, which is why working with a water spray bottle is definitely recommended.
Speed or Slowness and Noise
The Varia VS3 is the slowest espresso grinder we have measured to date. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. In this time, half the espresso machine can be cleaned. The slow speed takes some getting used to and, above all, changes the workflow if you have already worked with other grinders. If you haven't become accustomed to faster grinders, the slow grinding time is probably not a problem.
In addition, the grinder emits a persistent and rather unpleasant humming sound when grinding. At 73 decibels, this is rather on the quiet side compared to other grinders, but it sounds uneven, wobbling, and persistent. It is not the elegant sound of a powerful grinder, but sounds like a grinder on its last legs. This diminishes the feeling of operating a high-quality and elegant grinder.
The grinder's other operation is greatly simplified. A single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single Dosing Performance
The Varia VS3 is built as a Single Dosing grinder. To distinguish itself as a good single dosing grinder, it should meet two conditions:
- Little retention that remains in the grinding chamber after grinding.
- Easy adjustability between one recipe and the next. It should also be possible to easily return to the original recipe.
The temporary retention of the grinder is 1.1 grams of coffee. This is a good value, but we have higher expectations for Single Dosing grinders. To meet this, single dosing grinders that don't self-empty often have a bellows to clear the chamber with bellows strokes during grinding. If we use this, we get a single dosing retention of 0.05 grams. This is exemplary.
The bellows can also be removed, and the magnetic lid can then be placed directly on the grinder. However, it then sits so tightly that it is difficult to remove. Tip: Twist rather than pull, then it loosens more easily. However, using the bellows makes sense, which is why the lid scenario without bellows is likely to be rarely used.
Regarding the second criterion, grind consistency repeatability, the Varia VS3 could not convince, at least in the particle analysis. We performed these measurements at the Coffee Excellence Center of ZHAW in Wädenswil. In test 4, we precisely set the espresso grind according to a standard recipe. Subsequently, the grinder was set for ristretto and lungo, and one drink of each type was brewed. For test 7, we then returned to the previously set recipe, relying only on the optical marking.
The resulting particle distribution curve in our measurement showed a very large deviation from the comparative measurement. In particular, the fine particle content in the repeat measurement was significantly higher at 31.93% than in the initial measurement (24.58%).
While the measurement data suggests that adjusting between recipes is less straightforward, we did not experience this strong deviation between extractions in practice. We interpret that especially the strong adjustment from espresso to ristretto (very fine), then to lungo (coarser), and then back again, is not easy for the grinder. This is a drawback that increasingly appears in cheaper grinders.
If only small adjustments are made in daily use and similar coffees or roasts are used, the grind consistency repeatability proved less problematic in practice.
Workflow with the Varia VS3
Single dosing is pre-programmed and certainly intended with the Varia VS3. And one thing is clear: due to the very high static of the grinder, working with a water spray bottle is not only recommended, but almost a must. Firstly, otherwise a lot of static charge builds up, and the coffee powder sticks to the dosing cup and cannot be completely transferred to the portafilter.
Secondly, extractions without a water sprayer are much more irregular. Clearly: with water spraying, the Varia VS3 is an interesting grinder. For us, it is unusable without it!
Burr set: Upgrade or unnecessary luxury?
Varia offers four different burr sets for the VS3 – from the standard model to the elaborately coated Ultra version. Our tests show: a change can be worthwhile, but not for everyone.
- Those who prefer classic espressos with a full body, rather dark roasted and Italian style, will find a suitable upgrade with the Hypernova Titanium (M46C).
- For clearer, fruitier extractions, the Hypernova Ultra Set (M46D) is suitable – but with less body. However, it is smooth and even clearer than the Supernova Titanium set.
- Those who want to switch between espresso and filter coffee are best served with the Supernova Titanium (M46B). Medium body in espresso, but with great clarity and filter coffee performance that is also impressive.
- The standard burr set remains a solid all-rounder without clear weaknesses.
The decisive factor is which coffee you prefer and whether you really want to engage with the sensory differences. A change is worthwhile if you are keen on precision, experiments – and even better coffee.
Conclusion and Result Varia VS3
Despite all valid criticism of the Varia VS3, we should not overlook that the grinder is almost unbeatable in terms of price-performance. Good espresso quality, low retention, good consistency, and pragmatic usability in a truly elegant body with high-quality workmanship – the grinder delivers all this for 360 Euros!
The slow grinding time and the difficulty in adjusting between widely different grind settings can thus be tolerated. Our testers were positively surprised by the Varia VS3.
For anyone looking to start making espresso, the Varia VS3 is an interesting espresso grinder. Benjamin Hohlmann
The Varia VS3 is clearly superior to the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro, holds its own against the DF64, and doesn't have to hide from a small Eureka Magnifico either. All in all, a good and interesting grinder!
