The Varia VS3 performs very well in almost all test areas, making it a top recommendation for entry-level espresso grinders . We tested the Varia VS3 for several months at our coffee school and at home. We examined both the VS2 and VS3 versions.
Our goal as a coffee grinder tester and roaster is to find the best equipment for you at home so you can prepare our coffees in the best possible way. With the Varia VS3, we're on a very exciting path.
We have now also tested the big sister of the Varia VS3, which was launched on the market under the name VS6 .
Small price, small size – good performance?
With a width of just 9 cm, a height of 31 cm, and a depth of 14.8 cm (16.3 cm with plug), the Varia VS3 is one of the slimmest grinders on the market. The black or white lacquered stainless steel body is elegant and looks particularly sophisticated next to black and white machines. Despite its low weight of just 3.7 kg, the grinder sits solidly on the table.
This aspect of the grinder is a positive surprise overall: its exterior quality exceeds expectations, given the low price of €370 for an espresso grinder. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder for a mere CHF 270 in Switzerland, but this appears to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48mm conical burr, the core of which has an inner diameter of 38mm. This burr is made of high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia claims a burr lifespan of 150 kg of coffee. This is significantly less than what other manufacturers aim for. Assuming 80 espressos per kilogram, we arrive at 12,000 espresso extractions. The burr is easy to change afterward, especially since Varia offers other cones with varying performance levels. We are currently testing these and will update our results later.
But what does this little grinder do, and how does the espresso taste? Find out in our test video and in this article when it's ready.
Espresso quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard burr grinder delivers solid espresso. The espresso tastes full-bodied and balanced. Nuances of more complex coffees are less pronounced, as the overall body is round and delicious. The espressos we purchased are round, sweet, and delicious.
We wouldn't call the Varia VS3 the best choice for more complex coffees. The Varia VS3 seems to us to be a very good grinder for medium roasts. Despite its slow speed, it can produce results more quickly. At the same time, it's well-suited to unlocking the flavor potential inherent in the coffee beans.
The particle distribution we measured is good. The main peak is in the middle range with a width of 259 microns, as is the fines fraction at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and scope of delivery
The included dosing cup doesn't fit well in the portafilter because it's too small. An optional cup is now available that also fits 58mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this comes at an extra cost, and the included one doesn't do a good job.
The diameter wouldn't be a negative point if the cup could be attached to the portafilter like our KM cup . However, the small wings on the side are missing.
Also included is a small spray bottle for spraying water onto the beans before grinding. A recently published study shows that this has a positive effect on coffee extraction. The included glass bottle initially sprayed well for us, but then started to record the time during the video recording. That's how it is sometimes.
One negative aspect: the grinder may be compact, but it can't function without its enormous power supply. It's as big as many laptops. Anyone who can't store it under the countertop in their kitchen will quickly become frustrated. Someone in our community has found a solution and printed a 3D backpack for the grinder.
New model of the Varia VS3
We tested versions two and three of the Varia VS3. The latest model, which we also discuss in the video, has a slightly more powerful motor and no longer has a coating on the grinder's inlet. Some users experienced problems with the Varia VS3 version two, which the motor wasn't powerful enough for lighter beans. This should no longer be the case with the new model.
The coating on the coffee chute, while elegant, caused significant static charges. Coffee bean residue would always stick to the sides. This has improved, but it's still the case.
Static is a problem with the Varia VS3, which is why working with water spray bottles is definitely recommended.
Speed or slowness and volume
The Varia VS3 is the slowest espresso grinder we've measured so far. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. That's enough time to clean half an espresso machine. The slow speed takes some getting used to and will change your work rhythm, especially if you've used other grinders before. If you're not used to faster grinders, the slow grinding speed probably won't be a problem.
In addition, the grinder emits a penetrating and rather unpleasant humming sound while grinding. While at 73 decibels, it's on the quiet side compared to other grinders, it sounds uneven, wobbly, and penetrating. It's not the elegant sound of a powerful grinder, but rather sounds like a grinder on its last legs. This diminishes the feeling that you're using a high-quality and elegant grinder.
The mill's other controls are significantly simplified. A single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single Dosing Performance
The Varia VS3 is designed as a single-dosage grinder. To qualify as a good single-dosage grinder, the grinder must meet two requirements:
- Little dead space remains in the grinding chamber after grinding.
- Easy adjustment between one recipe and the next. It should also be possible to easily return to the original recipe.
The grinder's temporary dead space is 1.1 grams of coffee. That's a good value, but we have higher standards for single-dosing grinders. To meet these standards, single-dosing grinders that don't grind empty themselves often have a bellows that uses the bellows to empty the chamber during grinding. Using this, we achieve a single-dosing dead space of 0.05 grams. That's exemplary.
The bellows can also be removed, and the magnetic lid can then be placed directly on the grinder. However, it sits so tightly that it's difficult to remove. Tip: Twist instead of pulling, and it comes off more easily. However, using the bellows makes sense, so the lid scenario without the bellows is unlikely to be used very often.
When it comes to the second criterion, grind replicability , the Varia VS3 doesn't impress, at least not in particle analysis. We conducted these measurements at the Coffee Excellence Center of the ZHAW in Wädenswil . In Test 4, we precisely adjusted the espresso grind using a standard recipe. We then set the grinder to Ristretto and Lungo, and brewed one of each of these types of drinks. For Test 7, we returned to the previously set recipe, relying only on the visual markings.
The resulting particle distribution curve in our measurement shows a very large deviation from the reference measurement. In particular, the fines fraction was significantly higher in the repeat measurement (31.93%) than in the initial measurement (24.58%).
While the measured data suggests that adjusting between recipes is less straightforward, we haven't experienced such a significant deviation between the shots in practice. Our interpretation is that the grinder is particularly a challenge when adjusting sharply from espresso to ristretto (very fine), then to lungo (coarser), and then back again. This is a shortcoming that occurs more frequently with cheaper grinders.
If only small adjustments are made in everyday life and similar coffees or roasts are used, the grind replicability turns out to be less problematic in practice .
Workflow with the Varia VS3
With the Varia VS3, single dosing is pre-programmed and, of course, intended. And one thing is clear: due to the grinder's very high static charge, using a water spray bottle is not only recommended, but practically a must. Firstly, otherwise, a lot of static electricity builds up, and the coffee grounds stick to the dosing cup, making it impossible to pour all of them into the portafilter.
Secondly, the extractions are much more irregular without the water spray. Clearly, with the water spray, the Varia VS3 is an interesting grinder. For us, it's useless without it!
Grinding cones: upgrade or unnecessary luxury?
Varia offers four different grinding cones for the VS3 – from the standard model to the elaborately coated Ultra version. Our tests show that a change can be worthwhile, but not for everyone.
- If you prefer classic espressos with a lot of body, a darker roast and Italian style, the Hypernova Titanium (M46C) is a suitable upgrade.
- For clearer, fruitier extractions, the Hypernova Ultra Set (M46D) is ideal – although it has less body. It's smooth and slightly clearer than the Supernova Titanium Set.
- If you want to switch between espresso and filter coffee, the Supernova Titanium (M46B) is the best choice. It produces a medium-bodied espresso with plenty of clarity, and its filter coffee performance is also impressive.
- The standard cone remains a solid all-rounder with no clear weaknesses.
The deciding factor is your coffee preference and whether you're truly willing to embrace the sensory differences. Switching is worthwhile if you're looking for precision, experimentation—and even better coffee.
Conclusion and result Varia VS3
Despite all the justified criticism of the Varia VS3, we shouldn't forget that the grinder is hard to beat in terms of value for money. Good espresso quality, minimal dead space, consistent grinds, and practical operation in a truly elegant body with high-quality workmanship—all this is what this grinder delivers for €360!
This makes the slow grinding process and the difficulty of adjusting large differences in grind settings more manageable. Our testers were pleasantly surprised by the Varia VS3.
For anyone who wants to start preparing espresso, the Varia VS3 is an interesting espresso grinder. Benjamin Hohlmann
The Varia VS3 is significantly superior to the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro , easily competes with the DF64 , and even holds its own against a small Eureka Magnifico . All in all, a good and interesting grinder!
